Come Vestirsti da Vero Romano: La Migliore Sartoria in Città

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This is Marco, Elio’s son!

Vi presento Elio Gabizon, il comandante in capo della Sartoria al Corso. Un tipo duro, sincero. Ma dicono che il vero affetto debba essere sincero. Chi vi riempie di pacche sulle spalle e complimenti non sempre lo fa perché vi vuole bene.

Vi dirò una cosa, spoiler alert: tutte le strade portano a Piazza del Parlamento 8. Se siete in cerca dell’esperienza sartoriale definitiva non andate oltre. Questa sartoria è tutto ciò di cui avete bisogno. Potrei parlarvi della qualità dei capi in vendita e degli accessori: è tutta roba fatta in Italia con la massima cura e con i materiali migliori che si possano reperire sul mercato, senza utilizzare facili scorciatoie. Il che richiede soldi e tempo. Potrei anche parlarvi di come i prezzi siano scandalosamente bassi, specialmente considerata la qualità che la Sartoria al Corso offre alla sua (rigorosamente selezionata) clientela. Ma invece vi dirò semplicemente che non ho mai visto un posto come questo e che dovreste scordarvi delle storielle che vi raccontano gli altri sul rapporto qualità/prezzo. Dovete venire qui di persona, a Piazza del Parlamento, per capire ciò di cui parlo. Ma state attenti perché Elio, il proprietario, è un vero romano e come tale un gentiluomo di quelli autentici. Uno che ha gusto. Quindi lasciate ogni vostra velleità dandy all’ingresso e dategli ascolto. Oppure rivolgetevi altrove, dove vi prenderanno in giro e vi faranno spendere il doppio per vestiti che valgono la metà. A voi la scelta.

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Questo è il fazzoletto da taschino che Elio mi ha regalato la prima volta che sono entrato in sartoria…

Su mie pressanti richieste, Elio mi ha confessato il segreto che si cela dietro questi prezzi da urlo. “Non ho mai assunto nessun commesso, perché quelli raccontano fregnacce ai clienti… c’hai presente? Vogliono vendere quindi si inventano certe storie… ci siamo soltanto io e mio figlio qui!”.

“Quindi,” ho insistito, “il segreto è tutto qui? Niente impiegati?”

“No,” risponde lui, “c’è anche un’altra cosa. Vedi? I commercianti sono diventati tutti avidi. Vogliono fare quattrini a palate, ma non hanno voglia di lavorare il giusto. Vogliono riposarsi la domenica, capisci?”

“E tu? Non ti va di riposare?!”

“Io lavoro tutti i giorni, ventiquattro ore al giorno.”

L’ho guardato dritto negli occhi, era sincero. Elio è il tipo di persona di cui ci si può fidare. Pensavo d’essere ben vestito quando sono entrato da lui. Oh-oh, grosso errore! Non presupponete di essere ben vestiti. C’erano un paio di cose che andavano nel mio outfit e altre che non andavano. Elio mi ha messo in riga, lui non ha risposte confortevoli da darvi. Se non vi piace quello che dice potete andarvene. Ma io sono abbastanza umile da capire quando è il momento di fare silenzio. So che nella vita si impara solo nella misura in cui si diventa umili. Anche se avevo ancora indosso la giacca, Elio mi ha detto che le spalle della mia camicia erano troppo larghe. Me la sono sfilata e difatti le spalle erano un tantinello troppo larghe, come volevasi dimostrare. La stessa giacca era un po’ troppo stretta. Non solo: portavo i pantaloni un po’ calati e sembrava non avessi sedere. Eppure ce l’ho, posso assicuravelo. Un’altra cosa, il fazzoletto da taschino era troppo spesso per la tasca della mia giacca di lino. Elio me ne ha regalato uno di seta più fine. Veramente, ora che ci penso, non me lo ha proprio regalato. Perché, vedete? Secondo lui le pochette non si regalano mai, ma al limite si vendono in cambio della più piccola moneta che si possiede. Ho tirato fuori dalla tasca dieci cents. Ecco quanto è costata quella pochette. Si, va beh, sarà un po’ scaramantico, ma fa fico.

L’ho ringraziato, poi ho continuato a esplorare la boutique. A prima occhiata non sembrava diversa dalle altre sartorie romane, eccetto… mancava qualcosa. Mi ci è voluto un po’ per rendermene conto: poi ci sono arrivato. Questa particolare sartoria era completamente scevra di quell’intollerabile, quanto superflua, alterigia che contraddistingue quasi tutte le altre botteghe di questo tipo che ho visitato finora. Elio ti fa sentire a casa. Se per caso critica quello che ti sei messo addosso, si capisce che non ce l’ha con te personalmente. Qui sei accettato, anche se magari non sei vestito proprio del tutto kosher.

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Una giacca in seta e seersucker della Sartoria al Corso… come vedete, lo stile non è acqua…

Capite la differenza? In altre botteghe di questo tipo magari vi faranno dei complimenti, anche se non proprio del tutto sinceri, ma segretamente ti odiano perché non stai spendendo “x”. Il vero talento di questi commercianti non ha nulla a che vedere con le forbici e i tessuti e tutto a che vedere con i portafogli. Ti squadrano per un istante e ti fanno i conti in tasca. Da quel momento in poi ti trattano precisamente bene, a seconda di  quanto (secondo loro) vali. Quando esci da questi “negozi” senti addosso il puzzo del tradimento.

I peggiori commercianti sono quelli che ti spingono a compare vestiti che non sono riusciti a vendere prima. Ma Elio e suo figlio Marco – un ragazzo, brillante, di bell’aspetto e ben vestito – non sono fatti così. In un certo senso ti viene da pensare che a loro non glie ne può fregare di meno di quello che compri. Veramente, se proprio devo dirla tutta, sembra che a loro non interessi neanche se alla fine dei giochi non hai comprato proprio un bel niente! Non è che gli servono i tuoi soldi in fin dei conti.

Questo è il genere di persone con le quali amo fare business. Questi sono gli uomini d’affari di cui il mondo di oggi ha bisogno.

Quindi, se siete dei veri gentiluomini in visita a Roma e avete bisogno di nuovi vestiti, e se ci tenete da fare l’affare migliore della vostra vita, contattatemi! Vi farò conoscere Elio e Marco molto volentieri!

How to be Happy and Carefree with a T-shirt

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Don’t mess around with John! 🙂

This blackberry Waltbay t-Shirt isn’t just a t-shirt. You see? It really makes me proud because I’m dealing with a new brand! You wanna know the best part? The young entrepreneurs behind the Waltbay brand are actually Italians! Their t-shirts are made of 100% organic cotton, they are extremely soft and comfortable. It is a pleasure the wear them on the skin.  You can tell they are really well made and the price tag is reasonable. The one I’m wearing here is in Blackberry Red (they call it “melange red”). For 39 euros is a great bargain! I bought mine from Mosca’54.

READ MY LATEST BLOG POST IF YOU FEEL LONELY

The tactical trousers are by Blend Clothing Company. They are also made of 100% cotton, although not 100% organic. The cut is modern but not too modern, the slim fit is up to date. They are surprisingly flexible, to the point that I’m thinking about wearing them to my next hike… we’ll see. The color is military green, just perfect for this sorts of trousers. As you probably know already, I’m not a huge fan of tactical pants because they usually have these gigantic pockets on both sides that make them look a bit demodè. These don’t: as you can see the pockets are inside the pants. So, problem solved!

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The chain is an element of style… a token from my Berlin years…

Let’s take a closer look at this cap, instead. That’s a newsboy cap, in case you’re trying to figure it out. I like to call it paperboy hat, actually, it’s more to the point. As you can see, the color matches almost exactly the trousers. That’s not coincidental. I don’t like matching colors exactly in a casual outfit: it’s way too studied. By the way, I acquired this cap in Zurich, from Mayser Hut. Love that brand. This cap reminds me of one of my favorite anime (as well as manga) of all times: Ashita No Joe (Rocky Joe).  

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The “Paperboy cap” reminds me of one of my favorite anime (as well as manga) of all times: Ashita No Joe (Rocky Joe)

Now, for the MCS Harrington jacket. Don’t you love it? I do? The color of sand, this will serve you well during the breezy springtime nights. Such a beautiful piece of clothing! I mean, look at it! MCS is definitively one of my favorite casual brands of all time! It doesn’t pretend to be anything more than what it is: rugged and refined.

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To be totally honest with you, the exact color for this jacket is actually “mongoose”… do you even care?

What else, oh: we have a pair of red Everlast sneakers. They look like All Stars and I like that. They are inexpensive and comfortable enough for a short stroll in the neighborhood.

 

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Don’t forget to lace your shoes!

The Miltzen sunglasses are from Maui&Sons. I’m starting to like this brand. They make relatively inexpensive sunglasses in all sorts of shapes. The quality of the lenses is good enough.

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Miltzen tortoise sunglasses, who doesn’t love them?

The wristwatch is actually the one and only expensive piece of this outfit. We are dealing with an Eberhard Chrono 4, white dial, light brown leather strap.

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One expensive piece makes the whole outfit… but don’t tell anybody!

So, you might be thinking, “it’s all great, but how can I be happy and carefree with a t-shirt, John?” Well, listen: why wouldn’t you be happy and carefree? I mean, at the end of day, it could be a lot worse, right? You might be dead by now. But you aren’t. So be happy and carefree! At least for a few moments! And get yourself a Waltbay!

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Yeah, and? Just because I’m cool I can’t take a leak every once in a while? Get lost!

How to Leave Neverland and Beat the Peter Pan Syndrome

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Driver Cap: Spada Roma, Balzer: Brooksfield, Trousers: David Naman, Sweater: MCS, Pocket Square: Tie Shop Rome, Driver Shoes: Franceschini, Scarf: Carpisa Sunglasses: Maui&Sons

In this blog post, you’ll learn how to escape from Neverland and defeat the Peter Pan Syndrome. I’ll tell you in advance, the solution is: dress like a mature man (or a woman), or “fake it ‘till you make it”, if you wish. Start pretending to be a real man (or a real woman) and you’ll eventually become one.

In fact, in my most humble opinion (which is right), one of the single greatest problems of contemporary society is prolonged adolescence. You know? I’m more humble than you…

Anyways, prolonged adolescence has created a new sort of creature: it is not really a man (or a woman) yet, and not exactly a child anymore. This curious, unidentified living object exists in a limbo in which every right is granted to it, without the necessity to correspond equal responsibilities.     

They are all around us: it’s the Peter Pan’s army, surrender yourself. They are men, but not really. Only their documents betray them. They are way past their teenage years, already, but they don’t “feel like it”. They think that age is relative to their own feelings. Actually, they think EVERYTHING is relative to their own feelings. You’d better be aware: when you spot one of these young zombies, run for the hills!

But how can you spot them? Easy as pie… You see? They think they are smart, but, really, they are only a little bit better than you at using their smartphones. That’s what they think being “smart” means, anyway.

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This is how you can recognize them: since they never grow mentally, they naturally tend to dress like children. It’s unclear whether they do that in order to camouflage themselves, or because they just don’t realize it, however. Yet, scientists have speculated that this could be a tactic they use when they find themselves in the middle of their social circle so that they don’t have to take responsibilities for adjusting their wardrobes according to their age, and consequently, do the things that real men do in general.    

In the wintertime you will see them covering their faces in dark colored hoodies, generally with one big piece of writing on the chest, which -scientists claim- expresses their discontent with the world. In the summertime, they dress in colorful T-shirts covered in sagacious writings. At this point of the year, they seem to be more optimistic, probably because -scientists claim- it’s the holiday season and so they don’t have to justify themselves for the fact that they do nothing all the time. They like to wear shorts and sandals, soon as the weather allows it. This is an indication of their selfishness: they don’t care about the fact that, by exposing their hairy legs and horrible feet to the public, they cause distress to other people: all they care about is their own well-being. The most literate among them are still reading Harry Potter (they think it’s literature). Some other, still watch anime and read manga. The ones who are less nerdy have a penchant for soccer, or basketball, or some other sports. Usually, the “sporty ones” are also obsessed with keeping in shape.

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Pure white trousers + a Blue Navy blazer+ a light blue cotton sweater + blue suede driver shoes = a daring, but at the same time classic combo.

They don’t know who Le Goff is, or Bernard Lewis, or James Joyce. They haven’t read anything more complicated than George “RR” Martin. They traded their critical thinking skills for good grades during their sophomore years at some socialist university. Peer pressure made them succumb. They are the lost generation, the ones who have closed their minds, the students about whom Allan Bloom nefariously prophesied about.  Yet, they are utterly convinced that their number one priority is keeping in shape. They think sweating is the new reading.   

Careful! They can’t handle criticism: they’ll figuratively punch you in the eye with their colorful T-shirts full of witty writings that they use to complement their personality. If you offend them, they’ll shoot you with their Xbox controllers. Don’t ask them questions: they’ll bore you to death with their tedious, constant blabbering about their favorite football team. If you are not careful, you’ll soon find yourself surrounded by screaming kids at one of their wild parties. It seems they can’t have fun unless they get drunk and try to imitate the animals they are so fond of.

They are the literal incarnation of Timothy’s famous prophecy:

“This know also, that in the last days perilous times shall come. For men shall be lovers of their own selves, covetous, boasters, proud, blasphemers, disobedient to parents, unthankful, unholy, without natural affection, trucebreakers, false accusers, incontinent, fierce, despisers of those that are good, traitors, heady, highminded, lovers of pleasures more than lovers of God; Having a form of godliness, but denying the power thereof: from such turn away. For of this sort are they which creep into houses, and lead captive silly women laden with sins, led away with divers lusts, ever learning, and never able to come to the knowledge of the truth.” (2 Timothy 3)

These kids have bought into literally everything that doesn’t make sense. They are usually Marxists – or socialists- most assuredly Liberals, or Leftists at the very least. They are feminists, environmentalist, pro-LGBT advocates, atheists or agnostics -in the best case scenarios, they admire Obama, they are relativist social warriors, they fight all the worst fights that you could possibly think of. Just name one bad cause and rest assure they have already embraced it.

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What was I saying about black hoodies?

The problem being: they never actually grew up. They are spoiled brats. They want all the benefits of adulthoods without having to deal with the responsibilities.

I don’t hate them, it’s not their fault. It’s the “I want to give my kids everything I never had” mentality that ruined their life. Blame their parents: the sons and daughters of the Baby Boomers.

This is the reason why they are suffering from the Peter Pan syndrome. Prolonged adolescence is only one of the “problems from hell” I like to talk about so much.

This problem is reflected in the way these adult kids dress. For one Mark Zuckerberg -the hooded billionaire-, there are millions of thirty-year-old men who still dress like him, without having achieved anything significant in their life.

They are singles and desperate and they have nothing to show for.

Now, I’m not arguing that simply by dressing like real men they could change anything. I wish it were so easy! But I am saying that if you dress like Peter Pan, people will take you for who you are: a kid.

I’ve started this blog, almost a year ago because I’m utterly convinced that men are disappearing and that something must be done before it’s too late.

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How cool is this?

In this blog post, I put together a quasi-casual outfit that any thirty-year-old man could imitate. An outfit like this one will make you look much more mature and professional than usual. Yet, you should be able to put it together yourself with more or less 200 euros. Also, at least in theory, this outfit shouldn’t be intimidating.

The main element of this outfit is the vintage Brooksfield wool blazer in Navy Blue, with notch lapels and patch pockets. This classic-cut Blazer should serve you well throughout the best of the next two seasons. I’ve talked about what a Blazer is in this other blog post.

The David Naman white trousers, also made of cotton, are a great companion. Blue and white always go well together. Millennials should like them because they are not traditionally cut yet they are classy. So, it’s a trick!

The suede, electric-blue Franceschini Driver Shoes don’t really cost much, although they are well-made. I bought them a few years ago. But you can find similar shoes anywhere nowadays. Driving shoes are cool, perfect for the summer. 

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Shoes and trousers…

I literally love this cotton pullover in Sky blue by MCS, which I have bought by Mosca ’54 a couple of years ago. You can wear it on your skin: it’s the ideal compromise between a polo and cotton shirt. 

Get yourself a big enough, thick cotton scarf and les jeux son faits! This one is from Carpisa, it was a gift! As you can see it’s gray, so I used it as an accent.

Almost forgot: actually, you also need a driving cap like the one I’m wearing, which is from Spada Roma (I’ve described it elsewhere).

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A beautiful pocket square, the same color of the pullover, would add that magical touch to the ensemble. This one if from the Tie Shop Rome. A flower found in the surroundings would set you apart from the rest of the crowd. You can pluck it off later and give it to a woman you like. Just make sure you pick the right one… and get rid of the ants! 

Finally, a nice pair of inexpensive Wayfarers by Maui&Sons will keep your eyes safe from the evil sun and your wallet ready for a nice pizza. 

Granted prolonged adolescence is a problem from hell, but you can still defeat it with a little help from your friend, John Cravatta.

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How to Dress Perfectly for a Friend’s Funeral

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You would never want to hear about this, I know. Yet, people do pass away and there’s nothing we can do about it. In this blog post, you will learn how to dress perfectly for a friend’s funeral, but you will also learn the reason why you should do so, as well as how to act accordingly.  

It is extremely important that you show up at a friend’s funeral. Not only: you should also be dressed appropriately for the occasion, and you should do the right thing. A visit to your friend’s family is de rigueur. Express your sympathy and support the ones who are left behind. Make yourself available, comfort them. If you have good reasons to believe that the departed will be in heaven, do not hesitate to let them know. 

Something like: “Alessandro isn’t really dead, souls are eternal, he just went to sleep. We’ll all see him again soon. Time flies, no worries, this is not a ‘goodbye’, it is an ‘arrivederci’. God is in control.”

A good Bible verse to quote in such occasion would be Romans 14:7-9 or, if you wish to quote Jesus Himself, go for Matthew 5:4 “Blessed are those who mourn, for they shall be comforted…”

Now, Alessandro Petruccioli was a good man, father, and son. I know we always say the same things, but in this case, it’s true. The whole town of Viepri was at the funeral, plus some more people from all over Umbria and beyond. I, myself, came from Rome. There must have been at least three hundred people at the church that morning, maybe more. The long faces were sincere. 

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Alessandro was also a true friend of mine. Actually, we grew up together. That’s because my parents used to take me and my sister to Viepri (read this post) for the summer. It was like going to the Hamptons. In the year 1990, I lived together with Alessandro at his parent’s house (we were renting the ground floor). Our apartment in Rome was being renewed, so we decided to remain in Umbria that year. I was thirteen, he was eighteen. I looked up to him. 

Alessandro was the older brother I never had. He protected me and taught me many things. He was a great soccer player, he trained me patiently for months. When I went back to Rome, later that year, I was a better boy in every single way. 

Sorry for the digression, it was necessary. I argue that we should only attend funerals if we were actually close to the person who died. And if we do so, we should do it with the uttermost respect. Respect begins before we show up at church. It begins with choosing the proper outfit.

I’ve said this times and times again: this is the only occasion in which a man should wear black. Charcoal is fine, too. Pitch black would be perfect, however. 

A plain black suit, even if not particularly expensive, would be totally fine. This may sound strange to you, but I don’t possess a pitch black suit. I strongly believe that a gentleman must be well-dressed. Even more importantly, he should be always appropriately dressed. But that doesn’t require him to own an infinite number of suits, shirts, and shoes. 

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In fact, I would advise you to avoid black suits. In terms of cost-per-wear, they are a disaster. True: you could acquire an inexpensive black suit, as I said, and hang it in your wardrobe for months and months. Yet, cheap suits won’t last very long, even in the wardrobe. Trust me. 

You would be better off buying a 3 seasons charcoal suit like the Armani I’m wearing in these pictures. This way you can actually use it. A suit like this will serve you well when you’re invited to a “Black Tie Preferred” or “Black Tie Optional” event. Although, I suggest you get a tuxedo if you can afford it. At the same time, a quality, three buttons charcoal suit such as this one can also be worn during formal business meetings, preferably in the afternoon/evening. 

The one thing I would like you to keep in mind is that you are not supposed to be wearing a black shirt under a black suit, anyway. That would be way too much. I’m wearing a white shirt made of cotton, with a classic Italian collar, that I bought at Mosca54. Obviously, you can’t skip the black tie, though. 

In my humble opinion, in this case, the skinnier the necktie, the better. Black is such an awful thing… a big black tie is a punch in the eye. That is the reason why I opted for an off-white pocket square. Notice the TV fold. This is the only occasion in which I suggest you fold your pocket square this way. 

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You might want to opt for an inexpensive necktie in this case. It is unlikely that you are going to use a black necktie in any other context. The one I’m wearing is from the Tie Shop Rome

As per the shoes, go for a solid pair of Oxfords. The ones I’m wearing here are by Melluso. It is important that you keep in mind one thing: you can save money on your suit, shirt, hat, sunglasses, even on your wristwatch, but you must never save money on your shoes.

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A funeral is one of the occasions during which you will be thankful for the money you have invested in a good pair of shoes; you’ll likely have to walk a couple of miles from the church to the cemetery and then back. 

For the wristwatch: pick the best dress watch you own, but first, possibly, opt for a dress watch with a black dial. A black leather strap would be ideal. If you don’t own one, go for a steel bracelet. Don’t wear a watch if you don’t own one with a black dial. I’m wearing my vintage Rolex Oyster Day-Date. 

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Finally, a good pair of black sunglasses will serve you well. You’ll likely cry if you were particularly attached to your friend. It is ok to cry, but remember you must try and be strong for the people who are actually grieving the loss of a family member. Here I’m wearing an inexpensive pair of Maui&Sons

A black hat like the one I’m wearing will protect you from the sun and, at the same time, make you less visible. Discretion is mandatory in such a context, in my opinion. 

In a similar occasion, in fact, you’ll likely meet many old friends, but it would be better to postpone cheerful greetings at a later time. It is inappropriate to laugh and have a good time during a funeral, it’s disrespectful and in bad taste. The hat would serve you well because you could just tip it to show your friends respect and at the same time let them know that you are not available for a jovial tête-à-tête, at least for the time being. 

Nothing can prevent you from joining your old friends at the local bar for a drink. But even in such occasion, remember to steer the discourse toward the friend who’s missing. The topic must be his life, not yours. Agree with your friends to support the relatives of the dead one while they are grieving. The community must be supporting, the relatives of your friend must never be left alone unless they explicitly ask to be left alone. 

So, this is how to dress perfectly for a friend’s funeral. And now you also know the reason why you should dress this way. Also, you have learned how to act accordingly. Let me tell you: I don’t hope you will never lose a dear friend because that would be simply out of touch with reality. But I do hope that God will be with you. Remember, God is responsible for the evil things that happen in the world but He is the only one who actually knows the reason why bad things happen as well as in which way they are going to be used to good. God uses evil so that good may come out of it. However, no evil can come out directly from God Himself. The Prince of the Power of the Air is actually the one who should be blamed. Satan, aka “the Son of the Morning”, “the Deceiver”, “the Serpent of Old”, cannot harm or kill anybody without first receiving permission from God Himself. Luther used to say that even the Devil is God’s Devil, after all. But Satan can influence the life of each and every one of us, in a way that will lead to a premature death, if we don’t claim the victory in Christ that we already have. 

Feel free to ask me questions if you are uncertain about the subject. Also, if you can’t quite understand the last paragraph of this blog post, don’t worry: I’m here for you: spiritual things can only be discerned spiritually.

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Salva

Salva

How to Dress Like Fonzie and Live Happily Ever After (Sort of…)

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Are you ready to learn how to dress like The Fonz and live happily ever after? So, go ahead, you’re going to love this week’s outfit!

You know I have a fascination with everything American. Also, I strongly believe that the Fabulous 1950s were THE BEST decade ever. Can you imagine driving around in your Corvette dressed like the Fonz? Your girlfriend would have been the cutest thing, with her poodle skirt and her ponytail! By the way, who doesn’t love Drive-Ins? You could have watched “On the Waterfront” while munching on some well salted/well-buttered pop corn and kissing the Coca-Cola lips of your bae. Needless is to say: driving back in your convertible would have been the best part, fresh air on your face and Paul Anka singing “And they call it Puppy Loooooveee!” from croaking loudspeakers.

I find it ironic that God, chose, instead, another decade and another country for me to live in. We all have our crosses to carry, don’t we? At least, in His infinite grace, He has  provided me with “Happy Days“.

Happy Days is one of the best TV series of all times. Who doesn’t love Ron Howard as Richie Cunningham? Howard is one of my favorite directors. Yet, this week outfit is dedicated to Henry Wrinkler -aka Arthur Fonzarelli- “The Fonz” or “Fonzie”.

Hey! It’s also another casual outfit, not to mention the fact that is cheap. I know, I know, in another blog post I’ve said that it’s better to quit wearing Jeans once you turn forty… but I’m the one who makes the rules and I can break them from time to time.

I also want to talk to you about the absolutely underrated crew neck cotton T-Shirt.

Finally, I will reveal to you the secret to living happily ever after. No bullsh*t.

Let’s start with the black leather jacket. This is a Blend leatherette jacket (thanks to Mosca 54). I have previously described the qualities of a similar jacket in this post. This is not the same model, though, it looks more like the typical motorcycle jacket from the 1950s. I love its cut! Not only does this jacket look like the real thing from up-close, but it’s also considerably less expensive than the real thing.

leather jacket, blend, thefonz, happy days, fashionblogger, blend clothing company, john cravatta, monte mario, rome, roma, style, jacket,

The skinny Jeans are a pair of Cheap Mondays, the color of Kokoda Grey. Notice the cuffs. No, they didn’t really wear Jeans this tight back in the 1950s, nor they had discovered how to mix cotton and elastane to make them so flexible. Yet, as you know, I always advice to revive a vintage look with some modern elements, so that it doesn’t look geriatric.
cheap mondays, skinny jeans, sneakers, roman, fashionblogger, styleblogger, back, jacket, hat,

This is the reason why I went for a pair of runners/sneakers such as this. Everlast is trying to enter into nowadays extremely competitive sneaker market. It’s either they are out of their minds, or they are nuts. Either way, I like crazy so I’ve decided to support them. As we know, young people go by brands. They would never consider buying a pair of sneakers unless they are the same kind of sneakers everyone else is already wearing. In the same color. I find that approach to be lazy and lame at the very best. I like this pair of sneakers, I love the color and they come with two different types of shoelaces as well. Nice. You can pick between orange and yellow. They are comfortable, too and you can have them for a fraction of the price of sneakers that are in no way better than these, although they sport a more popular logo, like a swoosh, perhaps…

sneakers, runners, kicks, sneakeraddict, shoes, everlast

Anyways, counterintuitive as you might think this is: I think the main element of this outfit is not the jacket, but the crew neck, white, Levi’s T-shirt made of cotton. I literally love it. There’s only once catch, if you want it to look good on you, you must work out a lot. A shirt like this only looks good on someone with muscles. So, get down on that bench press and sweat! Ask my friend Nick, if you need a personal trainer. He is THE BEST. You can actually wear this T-shirt at the gym. It’ll make you look much more mature and cool than all these fifty-year-old men that are still wearing T-shirts with writings on them. Or, even worse, with some sort of cute little logos.

levis, crew neck, tshirt, fonzie,

Anyways, now for the details: I’m wearing a rare Lorenz-Aquastar Submariner from the 1970s on my wrist. Black dial, black leather bracelet.  The sunglasses? Rayban Aviators, bottle-green lenses, golden frame. I bought that baseball cap in Brooklyn, a couple of years ago.

Ah, I almost forgot: I’m guessing you’d like to know what’s the secret to living happily ever after, no bullsh*t, right? Well, that’s probably because -first all of all- you must understand that the concept of “living happily ever after” is overrated. James, the brother of Jesus, wrote that you should, instead, “be afflicted, and mourn, and weep: let your laughter be turned to mourning, and your joy to heaviness.” (James 4:9, KJV).

I know you probably disagree with that, and -forgive for being blunt- but I do tend to think that the brother of Jesus could have been a just tad wiser than you, guys.

What I’m trying to say is that the reason why you’re sad is probably because you still expect to be happy. In other words, you’re sad that you’re sad. Also, let me tell you another thing: nothing in this world will make you happy. Granted, if you try to satisfy your desires, you might -at some point- experience some sort of temporary jolt of happiness running down your spine. Yet, I want you to understand that, when you’ll wake up the very next day, even that transitory feeling will be gone. Everything is constantly ephemeral in the realm of the flesh.

fashionblogger, rayban, hat, jacket, jeans,

The greatest masterpiece of the devil, they say, is to convince us all that he doesn’t really exist. The truth is, we all worship something, but if you don’t worship the one, true God, you’ll end up being annihilated by the very object of your worship. You might choose money, friendship, sports, sex, luxury, anything. All these things will destroy you. The only object of worship that won’t destroy you, but -to the contrary- it’ll build you up is Jesus, our Lord, and Savior.

You don’t believe in Jesus? Look, you have no rational/scientific argument for not believing in Him. The fact is, you’re a stiff-necked fool and you are rebellious, fiercely independent, and full of pride. You want to live your life they way you feel like and you are the captain of your soul.

How do I know that? Well, if that wasn’t the case, you would at least attempt to receive Jesus by asking Him for forgiveness and inviting Him into your life. What do you have to lose? He doesn’t exist, anyways, right?

We must all carry our crosses. I wanted to live my life in the 1950s, in America, but God had other plans for me… at least I can still dress like The Fonz and watch Happy Days!

einstein, follia, craziness, heart, menstyle, menstyletips, styleguru,

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7 Good Reasons to Shun Fashion and Stand out From the Crowd

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IF YOU DON’T FEEL LIKE READING, WATCH THE YOUTUBE VIDEO INSTEAD!

Do you want to learn HOW TO DRESS UNCOMMONLY and stand out from the crowd? Then keep on  reading, this is going to be great! I’ll give you 7 great reasons why you should shun fashion and then I’ll explain to you how you can actually dress uncommonly. Also, I’ll give you a practical example, as usual.

This week’s outfit is, in fact, special. It represents an encounter between the North and the South of Italy (Webb&Scott+Four.Ten); with a pinch of France (Le Coq Sportif), some America (Wrangler 1947) and a sprinkle of Japan (Seiko Watches), this outfit is also cosmopolitan. It couldn’t be any different than this: this week’s outfit waves “goodbye” to General Winter. Miss Springtime is around the corner…

There’s something magical about shading off heavy jackets, boots, and wool sweaters and putting on lighter clothes such as linen jackets, cotton shirts or canvas sneakers, right? But now for the seven reasons why you should shun fashion:

1-The fashion industry is dishonest. Designers are tricking you into buying clothes that aren’t functional, that you don’t really need, and that will soon go out of fashion. By doing so, fashion creates a world in which people can actually cut off others just because they don’t dress like “they should”, according to the industry leaders. Get into style, instead, it’ll save you a lot of money. Give the rest to the poor people that fashion is trying to ostracize from society. Jesus said: “Lay not up for yourselves treasures upon earth, where moth and rust doth corrupt, and where thieves break through and steal: But lay up for yourselves treasures in heaven, where neither moth nor rust doth corrupt, and where thieves do not break through nor steal: For where your treasure is, there will your heart be also.” (Matthew 6:19-21, KJV)

2-Fashion is chaotic. Since the fashion industry needs to come out with something different every single year, it really doesn’t care about the quality of its creations, it can just go by numbers. Do you actually believe that in the back-offices of major fashion labels someone is thinking about why next year leather sandals will get back in fashion and black T-shirts won’t? If you do think so, you’re deluded. There isn’t any thought process going on behind those curtains, they go by chance. Mind you, I’m not denying that fashion designers are creative and talented, but the problem being: they are operating without a cause, other than expressing their talents, they are superficiel. Remember, the only thing that matters to the fashion industry is your money.

3-Fashion is in bad taste. Forget about the cuts on the knees of your jeans… According to GQ, next summer men should be wearing Hawaiian shirts, shorts and leather sandals with socks on, like the Germans do. Can you imagine something worst? I mean, the world is bad enough the way it is, do we really need a bunch of German kids strolling back and forth this valley of tears? NO THANKS, GQ insiders! There’s still some dignity left in us. Ha, for the record: AVOID GQ AT ALL COSTS, it’s the worst magazine ever published since Johannes Guttenberg invented his press machine.

4-Fashion is elitist and out of touch with reality. Let’s be honest, when was the last time you saw somebody dressed like one of the pathetic, androgynous models you see at the Milan Fashion Week? Come on, you won’t even be invited to Di Caprio’s yacht this summer, to get along with Brad Pitt and George Clooney. And that’s actually great news! Could you even fathom discussing how feminism and socialism are just great and global warming will kill your dogs and that Trump is a Nazi and gay people are the best thing since sliced bread? I’d rather eat the freakin’ yacht. But you might be thinking, how about all the beautiful girls? I’ll tell you what, if you had that in mind, you need a lobotomy. No seriously. First of all, they are obviously just a bunch of self-entitled, superficial sl*ts with a princess’ syndrome and a couple of STDs. Second, they are Leftists. And if that wasn’t enough, they are into Yoga. They might be beautiful on the outside, but they are ugly on the inside.

5-Fashion will make you look ridiculous and people will hate you if you dare to dress like one of the models you see on the passerelle. It’s worse than driving around in a Prius. Let’s be honest, you’ll lose all your friends and your mother will refuse to talk to you and the only person you’ll be able to hang out with is Lapo Elkan. That makes the prospect of spending a week on Di Caprio’s yacht sound like heaven…

6-Fashion is worldly, mundane, which means it is materialistic, soulless, concerned solely with what is here and now. It’s diabolical, get into fashion and you’ll start judging people by their clothes.

7-Fashion is totalitarian: by following fashion you’ll end up dressed like any other genius who had the same brilliant idea. You’ll look just like anybody else and that’s embarrassing. I mean, seriously: if you can’t think on your own you can’t make a difference in society.

I hope you all agree on these reasons why you should shun fashion, but if you happen to have other reasons, please feel free to contribute.
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Instead of following fashion, you should dress uniquely and since you are a unique human being, you should try to match your clothes to your personality. How can you dress uncommonly? It’s easy, I’ll show you how to be way better dressed than somebody who follows fashion. And get this: I’ll show how to do this with half the money you would spend if you were to follow fashion, instead. Also, you’ll actually be able to keep the clothes I’ll advice you to buy, because they’ll stay stylish for at least a couple of years, if not longer.

This is what you need to do: first of all, always wear fresh clothes. Second, you must follow weather, colors, emotions, and reason. Third, take into account the difference between night and day, as well as the venue, of course. Oh, and don’t forget: the devil is in the details…

When I say that you must always wear fresh clothes, I really mean it. Just experiment and take note of the difference between wearing fresh clothes and smelly ones. When you are on your way on the subway, in the car, or on the bus, take a minute or two every day and look around. Who’s wearing fresh clothes and who’s not? Take a mental note of their faces. Notice anything? The people who are wearing fresh clothes are more relaxed and the expression on their faces is more positive. Mind you, I have absolutely nothing against people who have been working all day long and therefore don’t look as fresh anymore. It’s their job: a man’s gotta do what a man’s gotta do. But my aim here is to teach you how to dress for success. You wouldn’t go out on a date with smelly, dirty clothes, right?

Now, how to follow weather? Simple: go by colors and fabrics. In the summertime, choose pastel colors, and linen, silk, cotton and canvas items. During the Winter, go for neutral colors instead, and pick wool, tweed, heavy cotton and leather. Easy right? Dressing according to the weather is vital. Get it wrong and you’ll sweat all your way to the business meeting. Get there sweaty and you’ll feel miserable and your colleagues will resent you for doing that. Get it wrong and you’ll shiver all the way to your appointment. You will resent the very moment you left the house. You’ll look terrible and you’ll be sneezing all over the place. Your colleagues will hate you, for a change. You might be thinking: “they hate me anyway”. Well, don’t give them any more reasons for doing that.

I’ve mentioned Emotions, too. How do you go about dressing your emotions? Easy as pie: dress in shades of dark colors if you happen to be sad or not particularly joyful that day, for whatever reason. You might want to avoid conversations. People will get it. Pick colorful clothes if you are happy, instead. It seems obvious but you would be surprised by how many people don’t even think about what they’ll be wearing and instead select the very first things that they find in their wardrobes. This creates confusion in their minds and that shows.

Reason: this is probably the hardest part, because it takes some time. People nowadays don’t really follow logic, for the most part. They prefer following their feelings and intuition because it’s easier. The vast majority of Women do this all the time. They even boast about how their intuition is superior. No wonder they end up like so many, lonely, used-up cat ladies and emotional train wrecks with a past of bad relationships and “depression” written on their foreheads. But I’m digressing. Following reason with your clothes means that you actually need to be aware of what you are wearing and why. What kind of fabric for your trousers? What’s the history of that fabric? Why are you wearing them? Does anything make sense or you just picked that particular kind of pants because they happened to be popping out from the drawer? When you are aware of what you are wearing, it shows. And when the vast majority of fashionistas out there don’t even remember their names, you are basically walking on waters compared to them. People will notice as well. And yes, even women would. but only the right ones. As per where you might find the right ones, I’m at a loss. Science can’t explain everything. And I’m not Jesus Christ.

So, to sum it up: avoiding fashion doesn’t mean you can’t pick up some trends that you think may suit your personality well, it just means you are better off dressing with style, instead. Be creative, be unique and you’ll stand out from the crowd.

Now, let’s be practical. This week’s outfit is one of my favorites of all times. It’s not entirely casual, but certainly not formal either. It would be perfect for you springtime Sunday walk to church (as a side note, I’ve just joined the Rome Baptist Church at Piazza San Lorenzo in Lucina, you should swing by sometimes…).

Let’s start with the main element: we are dealing with a dark blue, two-buttons Webb&Scott sports jacket made of cotton and elastane, with slim lapels and patch pockets. The devil in the details here is represented by the unstructured shoulders, as well as the beehive texture: they will keep you fresh when the weather is hot. The slim lapels call for a skinny necktie, but since I can’t wear skinny neckties due to my broad shoulders, I’ve skipped the neckwear altogether and went for a Wrangler cotton keffiyeh with a blue and white madras and geometric pattern. Obviously, this keffiyeh has nothing to do with terrorists…

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A few words about Webb&Scott: this is an Italian brand, a spin-off of the “Migor SPA“. I’m quoting from their own website “Migor is one of the most historic Italian companies manufacturing and distributing classical and sports shirts in the medium/high market segment ever since 1931. Experience, careful workmanship, constant search and innovation of style and product represent an extra value setting Migor as a standard of excellence in its field.” It’s easy to write down good stuff about yourself, but I have to say that this jacket is just great, especially considered its price.

When Alessandro Di Vita, owner of Mosca 1954, called me the other day and asked me to go check out some “new jackets” that had just arrived at the store, I was somehow skeptical. But upon close inspection fo this jacket, I had to change my mind. I liked the jacket so much that I did something unusual, I bought it for myself. Its price? 139 euros…

Webb&Scott also send some cotton shirts with a Korean collar and woven patterns. I picked a white one to go along with the jacket, it was love at first feel between me and this shirt as well. I ended up buying it, too.

shirt, korean, webb&scott, fashionbloggers, white, cotton, poplin,

Another thing I bought was and an extra pair of Four.ten simil-Jeans just like the ones I’ve reviewed in last week’s blog post, but this time in Orange White, as opposed to Navy Blue. I just love them. Take a look at last week’s blog post for a description.

You’ll notice I’m wearing a pair of off-white driving gloves made of leather, by the Tie Shop Rome. Needless is to say: it’ll be unlikely that you’ll meet other people wearing the same kind of gloves during your walk to the church…

The cotton pocket square is also from the Tie Shop Rome, but it’s not for sale anymore…

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Notice the socks are striped in blue, white and grey and made of cotton…

The last element of this outfit is a pair of off-white classic Tennis shoes made of canvas by Le Coq Sportif. All I’ll say is that you need a pair of white, or off-white, canvas sneakers such as this one. Just make sure you don’t wear them too often, or they’ll get dirty, and then they’ll look horrible. Keep them fresh!

sneakers, canvas, le coq sportif, trousers, pants, four.ten, fashionblogger, menstyle, style, menswear,

As per the wristwatch, I was wearing my newly acquired Seiko 5 automatic day/date, with the emerald green dial and the steel bracelet I love so much.

The sunglasses are a pair of Maui&Sons Wayfarer. Nothing fancy, but they do their job.

I’ve described the paper Trilby hat in this post. This hat as an interesting story, make sure you read about it!

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So, this is why you should shun fashion and dress uncommonly, instead. Please, I’m on a mission here, help me out to spread the gospel of gentlemen. Make sure to comment, share, and like this post. Also, subscribe to my Youtube channel, as well as my blog, or follow me on Instagram, Facebook and Twitter!

Salva

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Is there Life After Jeans? Happiness is Wildly Overrated, Style Is Not

gentleman, braces, suspenders, shirt, trousers, jeans, 40, fashionbloggerREAD THIS POST IN ITALIAN

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I’ve turned 40 last week. And no, I’m not happy. In fact, I was so sad that I couldn’t even think about a good topic for the new blog post. But then it dawned on me: Is there Life After Jeans? I’m getting too old to wear Jeans. As much as I admire Jeremy Clarkson, I don’t think he’s a good role model when it comes to style. I don’t want to fall victim of the infamous Clarkson Effect (see last week’s video for an explanation). That is not the reason why I’m not happy, though. The reason why I’m sad is because I have always expected to be happy.

Yet, I realize now: happiness is wildly overrated, but style isn’t. You have limited control over the circumstances of your life, but all the control in the world when it comes to how you react to them.

Why style isn’t overrated? Because style isn’t about the clothes you wear, it’s about why and how you wear them.

Some people think that anybody can dress however they want. I always argue that this is not a question of whether you can dress however you want or not, as much as it is a question of is it convenient to do so?

shoes, loafers, four.ten, driver cap, spadaroma, tieshoprome, mosca54, necktie, philip watch, braces, suspenders, menstyle,

So, the question becomes, is there life after Jeans? Regrets, that’s for sure. But we must look ahead. After all, we all know life is a bitch. Bitches come and go.

Christ Himself once said: “No man, having put his hand to the plough, and looking back, is fit for the kingdom of God.” (Luke 9:62)

Even the Apostle Paul reiterated: “When I was a child, I spake as a child, I understood as a child, I thought as a child: but when I became a man, I put away childish things.” (1 Corinthians 13:11)

Apart from bitches and regrets, there is one thing you can do. Get a pair of “Four.Ten” slim cut trousers in Navy Blue like the ones I’m wearing in these pictures. They are not made of denim cloth, but they still have the typical Jeans-cut and the rivets you love so much. They are comfortable and fit like a glove. Also, unlike traditional Jeans, you can dress them up pretty easily.

I think that the Four.Ten fit the role here. Here’s what their website says about the brand philosophy: “For men who are aware of their charm, who know that there is no need to flaunt it, and who prefer 4/10 because it is a symbol of sophisticated fashion that is both simple and elegant.” Both Jesus and Paul would probably have appreciated as well.

4/10, four.ten, trousers, jeans, denim, menstyletips, pantaloni, cotton,

There are also other things you can do, apart from the simil-Jeans. For some unfathomable reason, complaining about what’s not going ok is always so easy! We seldom stop and think about the good things in life. Glasses are always half-empty in our universe, and almost never full.

For example, a forty-year-old man is now ready for suspenders (braces, for the Brits among you). Suspenders are one of the most interesting elements in the outfit of a modern gentleman. First of all, they are much more comfortable than belts. Second, if that wasn’t enough, they also do their work better than belts. Third, you don’t need to match suspenders with anything else. Suspenders are the only element of your outfit that you can freely choose without any regard for other colors. That’s right: you could wear black suspenders under a Navy Blue Suit! Fourth, they keep your shirt in place! Fifth, I personally think that they are both fun and professional. It’s hard to put your finger on it, but it seems to me that wearing a pair of suspenders like the ones in the picture, can instantly make you look more approachable. Yet, wearing suspenders also sets you apart from the rest of the crowd. They are sophisticated and yet totally fanciful at the same time. And the best thing is: they only look good when you look forty!

braces, suspenders, necktie, john cravatta, fashioblogger, beard,

There’s another element of a gentleman’s outfit that only starts looking good on you when you’re finally past your thirties: a tweed jacket. Tweed is quintessentially British. Tweed is also controversial: a tweed jacket is sporty, but traditional at the same time. The fabric itself has an interesting story. A tweed jacket will be the perfect companion for your hunting activity when the weather is uncertain. Tweed is indeed a flexible, durable, as well as hydro-repellent material. Combine this quality with a herringbone structure, throw in some Italian flair, and add a sprinkle of color and you’ll have this wonderful Tombolini three-buttons jacket with large notch lapels, flap pockets and structured shoulders the color of rust.

Recently I’ve been very much into casual style (as you can see here and here, for example). This is due to opportunity and necessity, but also, probably, to some kind of middle-age crisis. This is outfit clearly represents some sort of compromise between business and casual. Yes, we do have a classic shirt, a silk regimental necktie, a jacket, Navy Blue sartorial trousers, leather shoes, a tweed cap and even a dress watch, but all these elements are utterly casual. The shoes are no exception.

jacket, tombolini, tweed, 40, menstyleadvice, pocket square,

They are a pair of classic loafers by Ame Delan, the color of Smoke Tree. I thought they would fit the spirit of this outfit perfectly because: A) Ame Delan is an Italian brand B) Loafers are totally casual. Do not choose any sort of loafers in any official context! Don’t be fooled by the fact that they are leather shoes.

The only other thing I can say about this pair of Ame Delan is that you simply tend to forget that you are wearing them. They fit like a glove, they are extremely comfortable and really well made. You can’t find anything better in that price range. It’s basically a miracle: by getting a pair of Ame Delan you pay 6 and receive 10. I hope it will last.

As per the rest: I’ve described the driver cap by Spada Roma in this post. Now, the necktie is an interesting piece here. This is a seven folds Regimental silk necktie by the Tie Shop Rome. It goes by the name of “Bright Soldier” because its main color is bright red and also because Regimental neckties are obviously of military origins. The only thing I can say about this necktie is that people tend to forget that, more often than not, a quality item goes a long way, while a cheap one might last for only a season. It’s the famous concept of cost-per-wear. Simply put, investing some more money in a quality item of clothing is usually a better strategy in the long run, as cheaper items will actually cost you more since they will inevitably tend to get broken sooner than quality items.

gentleman, jacket, rules, style, styletips, stylerules,

So, consider quitting wearing Jeans when you turn forty. It’ll make you look more authoritative. People out there will judge you based on how you are dressed, it is sad but true. It is advisable to leave the things of the past behind you. You are not a boy anymore, you are a man now. But if you dress like a boy, people will treat you like a boy.

There is life after Jeans, provided you grow up.

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C’è Vita dopo I Jeans? La Felicità e Sopravvalutata, lo Stile No.

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gentleman, braces, suspenders, shirt, trousers, jeans, 40, fashionblogger

La scorsa settimana ho compiuto quarant’anni. E no, non sono affatto felice. Infatti, al contrario, ero così triste che non mi veniva in mente un tema per il prossimo post sul blog. Ma poi ho capito. C’è Vita oltre I Jeans? Sto diventando troppo vecchio per indossare Jeans. Per quanto io ammiri Jeremy Clarkson, non penso che si tratti di un buon modello di stile. Non ho alcuna intenzione di diventare una vittima del famigerato Effetto Clarkson (date un’occhiata al video per chiarificazioni).

Questo, però, non è il motivo per cui sono triste. Sono triste perché
mi sono sempre aspettato di essere felice. Eppure ora capisco: la felicità è assolutamente sopravalutata, ma lo stile non lo è. Le circostanze della vita non le puoi controllare, ma puoi controllare il modo in cui reagisci ad esse.

Perché lo stile non è sopravvalutato? Perché non si tratta del tipo di vestiti che indossi, ma di come e perché li indossi. Non è una questione di menefreghismo, alla “ognuno può vestirsi come gli pare”, ma si tratta di capire se sia conveniente o meno vestirsi come ci pare.

shoes, loafers, four.ten, driver cap, spadaroma, tieshoprome, mosca54, necktie, philip watch, braces, suspenders, menstyle,

Quindi c’è vita dopo i Jeans? Di certo ci sono i rimpianti. Ma bisogna guardare avanti. Dopo tutto, lo sappiamo tutti che la vita è una cagna. le cagne vanno e vengono.

Lo stesso Gesù Cristo, una volta disse: “Nessuno che abbia messo la mano all’aratro e poi riguardi indietro, è adatto al regno di Dio.” (Vangelo di Luca, Capitolo 9 verso 62, Riveduta del 1927).

E perfino l’apostolo Paolo reiterò: “Quand’ero fanciullo, parlavo da fanciullo, pensavo da fanciullo, ragionavo da fanciullo; ma quando son diventato uomo, ho smesso le cose da fanciullo.” (1a Lettera ai Corinzi, Verso 13, Riveduta del 1927).

A parte i rimpianti e le cagne, c’è una cosa che si può fare. Accattatevi un paio di pantaloni Four.Ten taglio slim in blu Navy, come quelli che mi vedete indossare in queste foto. Non sono fatti di tessuto Denim, ma comunque hanno il tipico taglio Jeans e i rivetti che vi piacciono tanto. Da Mosca’54 li vendono a 79 euro. Sono tanto comodi da indossare che sembrano guanti per le gambe. Inoltre, al contrario dei Jeans, sono molto facili da abbinare a capi di abbigliamento più eleganti, quindi sono più versatili dei Jeans tradizionali.

Credo che il brand 4/10 sia perfetto per queste circostanze. Ecco quello che il loro stesso sito dice rispetto alla filosofia aziendale riguardo agli uomini che prediligono questo marchio. “Sono uomini sempre contraddistinti da una fortissima personalità. Sono consci del proprio fascino, sanno che non occorra ostentare e prediligono 4/10 perché simbolo di una moda consapevole, basica e nel contempo elegante.” Credo che persino Gesù e Paolo avrebbero apprezzato.

4/10, four.ten, trousers, jeans, denim, menstyletips, pantaloni, cotton,

Ci sono anche altre contromisure da adottare, oltre ai simil-jeans. Per qualche strano e imperscrutabile motivo, è sempre facile lamentarsi di quello che non va. Raramente ci fermiamo a riflettere sulle cose belle della vita. I bicchieri sono quasi sempre vuoti nel nostro universo.

Per esempio, un quarantenne è finalmente pronto per indossare le bretelle (se vi capita di rivolgervi a un americano, chiamatele “suspenders”, ma se parlate con un inglese, allora optate per “braces”. Per un inglese “suspenders” significa “reggicalze”). Le bretelle, infatti, per quanto mi riguarda, sono uno degli elementi più interessanti nel vestiario di un gentiluomo moderno. Per prima cosa, sono molto più comode delle cinte. Secondo, se questo non bastasse, fanno meglio il loro lavoro. Terzo, non c’è bisogno di abbinare le bretelle con gli altri elementi del vostro completo o spezzato, si tratta infatti dell’unico elemento di vestiario che può essere scelto liberamente e indipendentemente dagli altri. Esatto: volendo potreste perfino indossare bretelle nere sotto un abito blu Navy. Quarto, le bretelle vi tengono la camicia a posto! Cinque, personalmente penso che le bretelle siano allo tesso tempo divertenti e professionali. Non è semplice da mettere nero su bianco, ma mi sembra quasi che un paio di bretelle come quello che indosso qui, possano istantaneamente farvi apparire molto più “alla mano” mentre allo stesso tempo vi collocano in un’altra categoria rispetto al resto della folla. Sono sofisticate, ma completamente fuori di testa allo stesso tempo. La cosa migliore, poi, è che le bretelle vi stanno bene solo dopo i quarant’anni. Troverete un paio di bretelle simili al Tie Shop Roma di Via di Campo Marzio per circa 59 euro.

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C’è un altro elemento nel guardaroba di un gentiluomo che comincia finalmente a starvi bene solo dopo i trent’anni: una giacca di tweed. Il tweed è “British” per antonomasia. Ma il tweed è anche controverso: una giacca in tweed è sportiva, ma allo stesso tempo tradizionale. La stessa storia di questo tessuto è interessante. Una giacca di tweed è la compagna ideale per una battuta di caccia. Il tweed è flessibile, durevole e impermeabile allo stesso tempo. Combinatelo con una struttura a spina di pesce, un po’ di sana fantasia all’italiana, e un poco di colore e otterrete questa magnifica giacca Tombolini color ruggine a tre bottoni con larghi rever intagliati, tasche a patta e spalline imbottite.

Recentemente mi sono occupato molto di completi casual (spulciate il blog). Si è trattato di una questione di necessità e opportunità, ma anche, probabilmente, di un qualche tipo di crisi di mezza età. Questo outfit rappresenta chiaramente un compromesso tra il formale e il casual. Sì, abbiamo a che fare con una camicia di tipo classico, una cravatta in seta Regimental, una giacca, pantaloni sartoriali in blu Navy, scarpe di cuoio e cappello in tweed, oltre che un orologio elegante, ma tutti questi elementi sono completamente casual. Le scarpe non fanno eccezione.

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Si tratta di un paio di Ame Delan, del colore Scotano. Ho pensato che sarebbero state adattissime a questo completo perché a) la Ame Delan è una ditta italiana b) i mocassini sono casual al 100%. Non usate mocassini di alcun in nessun tipo di contesto ufficiale! Non fatevi ingannare dal fatto che si tratta di scarpe di cuoio.

L’unica cosa che posso aggiungere riguardo a questo paio di Ame Delan
è che semplicemente si tende a scordare il fatto di averle ai piedi. Calzano come un guanto, sono estremamente comode e molto ben fatte. Non si trova niente di meglio in quella fascia di prezzo. Si tratta praticamente di un miracolo: accattandovi un paio di Ame Delan, in pratica, pagate 6 per ricevere 10. Spero duri ancora a lungo…

L’altro elemento di questo outfit, la camicia, è uno dei più formali. Si tratta di una Marian Vitel color blue cielo, senza button down e senza taschino. Essendo una camicia su misura, calza benissimo ed è molto comoda. Se riuscite a trovare un sarto di quartiere abile come Marian ben per voi!

Per quanto riguarda il resto: ho descritto il berretto da pilota di Spada Roma in precedenza, quindi è inutile parlarne ancora. Invece la cravatta è un elemento che merita qualche riga. Si tratta di una Sette Pieghe Regimental fatta in seta del Tie Shop Rome. Si chiama “Bright Soldier” perché il suo colore principale è il rosso bright e le sue origini sono militari. L’unica cosa che si possa dire riguardo a questa cravatta è che le persone tendono a dimenticare che un elemento di qualità dura più lungo di uno a buon mercato, che in genera dura solo il tempo di una stagione. Siamo di fronte al famoso concetto di “cost-per-wear”, ovvero il costo dell’oggetto per ogni singola volta in cui si indossa. In parole povere, investire qualche soldo in più in un indumento di qualità alla lunga risulterà più conveniente perché gli indumenti di qualità bassa tendono a logorarsi molto prima.

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Insomma, prendete in seria considerazione l’idea di smettere di indossare i Jeans dopo i quarant’anni. Vi farà apparire più autoritari. La gente vi giudicherà in base a come vi vestite, è triste ma vero. è consigliabile lasciarvi alle spalle le cose del passato. Non siete più ragazzi, ormai, siete uomini. Ma se vi vestite come ragazzi, la gente vi tratterà come ragazzi.

C’è vita dopo i Jeans, sempre ammesso che cresciate.

How to Wear Jeans as God Commands: 6 Blissful Rules

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Always wear a cashmere sweater directly on your skin.

 

WATCH THE VIDEO HERE

We owe the invention of modern Jeans to a Jewish duo, an Ashkenazy Businessman of German origins and a Latvian tailor, to be precise. Löb Strauß and Jākobs Jufess are better known as Levi Strauss and Jacob Davis, nowadays.

Yet, 144 years ago, in San Francisco, during the era of the Gold Rush, Strauss and Davis came out with a terrific idea: they were going to make money out of a pair of sturdy pants made of denim cloth. Davis was a practical man: good, old-fashioned American pragmatism used to run in his veins. For a living, he made useful things for gold diggers out of denim cloth that he would buy from Strauss’ dry goods store. Things like wagon covers, for example, or tents.

The legend of the Levi’s Jeans began when one very manly hard-worker asked Davis to make a pair of sturdy trousers that could withstand anything. That’s the reason why there are copper rivets on your Jeans.

By the way, the word “Jeans” means “Genoa” in French (Gênes). Why Genoa? Well, that’s where cotton corduroy fabric was manufactured, back in the good-old days.

Jeans are made of Dungaree fabric or Denim. The diagonal ribbing is obtained by passing the weft under two, or more, warp threads. This type of fabric pattern is called “twill weave”. The reason why Jeans are usually of fading indigo color is because the warp thread is dyed, while the weft thread isn’t. But if you are a nerd and what concerns you is the technical aspect of the Jeans fabric, instead of its usage, just click on the links that I have provided and you’ll be satisfied. No need to go further.

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Rivets: I love them.

Normal people can instead continue reading, while I explain to you how to wear Jeans as God Commands and talk about the 6 blissful rules mentioned in the title.

Rule # 1The Clarkson Effect: I’m quoting the Telegraph here: “Sales of the denim trousers, a wardrobe essential for much of the 1980s and 1990s, took a dive in 1997 because middle-aged wearers such as the television presenter Clarkson made them seem unhip.”

For those of you who don’t know who Jeremy Clarkson is: stop reading right now and goodbye. For normal people, the point is clear: you can’t wear Jeans if you are older than 40. So, sorry: dress your age, mister!

Rule# 2You can’t wear distressed jeans with cuts on the knees or anywhere else. No, I’m sorry: you can’t. No seriously. This is called the “Raggi effect”. Virginia Raggi, the worst mayor of all times, was once seen wearing jeans with cuts on the knees during an official meeting. Rome has seen better times indeed. (I’m not linking her name because it stinks).

Rule#3You can’t wear black Jeans. Black tourers are bad enough, but black jeans are even worse. Stay the hell away from them. This is what the Lord says about wearing black Jeans: “And if ye walk with black dungarees and will not hearken unto me; I will bring seven times more plagues upon you, according to your sins. I will also send wild beasts among you, which shall rob you of your children, and destroy your smartphones, and make you few in number. I will also break the USB readers of your car stereo and your Highways shall be desolate. ” Leviticus, 26:21,22 (KJV) Got it?

Rule#4The darker the blue, the more formal the Jeans. In theory, you should not wear light blue Jeans if you’re past the age of 25. But if they aren’t distressed, or if the cut isn’t particularly skinny, you can possibly pull them off, provided you are in very good shape and your legs are straight and long enough. Sorry, Hobbits: you don’t look great in Jeans.

Rule#5The simpler the cut, the more formal the Jeans. Skinnier Jeans are less formal than regular Jeans. As you know, I normally do not advice to follow fashion. Yet, sometimes fashion gets it right. Let’s avoid bell-bottoms legs AT ALL COSTS. Let’s refer to the word of the Lord our God again. This is what Jehovah commanded regarding bell-bottom jeans: “And they shall nor more wear bell-bottom dungarees, or offer sacrifices unto flower children, after whom they have gone a whoring. This shall be a statute for ever unto them, throughout their generations.” Leviticus 17:7 (KJV) Verstandest du? Tu compris? Entiendes? Capisc? Do you understand?

Rule#6Pair your jeans with the right shoes, shirts, and jackets. Don’t wear Oxfords on a pair of distressed, light blue Jeans: it simply doesn’t work, it will make you look ridiculous. Don’t wear a jacket over light blue jeans either, for the same reason. Also, avoid denim shirts when you are wearing blue jeans. At times, my Instagram feed has been invaded by posts which portrayed guys wearing blue denim shirts over blue jeans of the same hue!

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What are you staring at!?
Some think that a true gentleman should not wear Jeans, but I disagree. Jeans have been invented by two hustlers in America and they are sturdy and versatile. A Gentleman, sometimes, needs a pair of sturdy pants too.
CHECK OUT OTHER JEANS OUTFITS HERE AND HERE
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Let’s be honest: you need to get in shape, otherwise, it doesn’t matter how you are dressed, you’ll always look bad.
Rules are not sufficient, though. It’s easy to say what you can’t do. So, I’ll give some examples of what you can do with the most popular sorts of Jeans.I’ll also go from the bottom up: I’ll give you three examples on how to combine three different outfits with three different pairs of Jeans, starting from the most casual (and less formal) combination, passing from the middle-way and finishing with the most formal outfit.
In the first picture you see me wearing a pair of Blend, skinny, light blue, distressed Jeans, under a Hunt’s Gallery cashmere sweater the color of Plum (HEX #D998D2), a gray driving cap made of cotton with a madras pattern, and Blend white sneakers. All these items are courtesy of Mosca ’54. The wristwatch is a vintage Swatch Chrono.
The second outfit is a little bit more complicated and much more formal. Here you see me wearing a pair of Wranglers of slightly darker blue and a more traditional cut. The white shirt is from Mosca ’54, the Preppy style necktie is from the Tie Shop Rome, the driving cap is from Spada Roma, the vintage wool vest if from Gucci and the golf Spectators are a pair of Lumberjacks. The wristwatch here is a much more serious Eberhard Chrono4.
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This vest you see here is a little treasure, a vintage Gucci! The Madras pattern is lovely, I find it so preppy! Therefore I used a preppy silk necktie to go with it. I think everybody should own at least a pair of Spectator shoes. These ones are in leather and canvas.
The third outfit is also the most formal. Now the Jeans (Levi’s) are dark blue, I’m wearing a  green sports jacket in cotton by Gutteridge (nothing fancy), a pink, button-down shirt by Marcus, an ascot tie made in silk by the Tie Shop Rome (notice the paisley patterns are also pink), and a pair of Melluso derbies with red shoelaces. The Tyrolean hat by OVS is made of canvas. The gradient sunglasses are by Oliver Peoples, the wristwatch is, once again, the vintage Swatch Chrono. The silk pocket square is also by the Tie Shop Rome.
Now that you have learned the 6 blissful rules on how to wear jeans as God commands, please respect them. Also, if you think this post was useful, it’ll be great if you could share it with your friends! I’m on a mission here: do, please, help me to spread the gospel of gentlemen. I would truly appreciate it!
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If you ever get a pair of traditional Levi’s in dark blue (these ones are 511), make sure they fit you correctly, not too tight, not too loose. Also, the leg should be of the right length: not too long, not too short. A regular fit is more appropriate for these sorts of Jeans, especially if you are wearing a jacket and a pair of leather shoes.

Salva

Salva

Salva

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Salva

3 Hidden Secrets to a Terrific Business Casual Outfit

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…And how to turn it into a remarkable Smart Casual outfit in 3 easy moves…

Business Casual and Smart Casual are two ambiguous formulas. Nobody can tell you exactly what a Business Casual outfit is. Some have speculated that a Business Casual outfit is basically a Casual Friday one. Some others claim that a jacket (or a blazer), a shirt (possibly button down), a pair of trousers (five pockets, dockers, or chinos) and leather shoes constitute the globally “safe” Business Casual attire. Notice there’s no mention of neckties or pocket handkerchieves.

Continue reading “3 Hidden Secrets to a Terrific Business Casual Outfit”